WELCOME TO THE BLOOD PYTHON WORLD!
(Easy level care)
On this page, we will go over the care of your python! I have owned reptiles since I was six years old and have had a deep fascination with snakes. I have had years of researching, reptile-common-sense, and experience to debunk the false care info and put together a care sheet to meet your reptile’s needs and enrich their lives.
Items to purchase from Amazon:
- Thermostat with probe is essential to regulate the correct temperatures.
- Dual Lamp to be able to provide a light bulb or UVB for enrichment and Heat bulb.
- Depending on cage size the heat bulb wattage can vary, your options are 25w, 40w, 60w, or 100w. The thermostat will protect the reptile from burning, but if you purchase a weak bulb you wont be able to heat the enclosure properly.
- Digital Thermostat and Hygrometer to monitor.
- Variety of substrates are available, but we recommend soil and/or bark.
- A water bowl that allows them to be able to lay in it. We personally like this one.
- Hides and décor for the reptiles comfort.
- Here’s a starter enclosure for a baby, but if you are looking for something different there are these.
- Tongs for tong feeding.
Additional Info:
Python brongersmai
They also go by Red Short-Tailed Python, Malaysian Blood Python, and Blood Python. They average 4-5ft long, and only 1/10th of their body is tail.
Enclosure:
Babies can live in a 20-gal enclosure. Moving them to an adult enclosure after the baby enclosure would be economical. Adult enclosure minimum is 4ft. long, 2ft. wide, and two ft. tall. Blood pythons can get up to 6ft in some cases. They are highly terrestrial.
Substrate(Flooring):
Cypress mulch is an excellent substrate to hold moisture. You can add coco fiber or top organic soil for extra humidity. Refrain from using repti-bark if you do not want their water dyed.
Décor:
Have a water bowl on the cold side (reduces bacteria), and you can put a hide on the hot and cold side. Refrain from cardboard. It molds super fast! Other decors like fake plants, vines draping, or natural plants will help the reptile feel secure.
Cohabbing long-term isn’t a good idea.
Humidity & Temps:
60%-70% Humidity. 78-80° Cool side, 88-90° Hot side. Always have a basking light on a thermostat; snake burns are extremely painful to the snake & expensive to treat. UVB is an excellent addition to keeping your snake healthy. Heating pads are not efficient for heating such a large species of snake.
Handling:
Blood Python hatchlings will act defensive when you swoop your hand down at them, so please use a snake hook. They are scared when they are so small. Regular small handling sessions will get them more used to being handled. Do not handle it 48 hours after their meal so they can digest 🙂
Feeding:
Feeding depends on how your snake weight is going, but here is a basic chart to go by:
- Hatchlings (under a year) should be fed once every seven days.
- Juveniles (over a year) should be fed once every seven days.
- Adults (about two years old) should be fed once every 10-14 days
Pick mice/rats by the width of your snake’s stomach. It can be more significant than the thickest part of your snake’s body!
Up the meal size or frequency of your snake is skinny (feel ribs), but this chart I go by should keep your boa constrictor healthy. Lower the meal size if your snake is getting hefty (white skin between their scales)
Cleaning:
Please clean your snake’s poops & pees once you see them; they can get sick if you don’t! Every six months, deep clean & replace the substrate.