WELCOME TO CORN SNAKE WORLD!
(Beginner snake)
We will go over the care of your Corn Snake in this sheet! I have owned reptiles since I was six years old and have had a deep fascination with reptiles. I have had years of researching, reptile-common-sense, and experience to debunk the false care info and put together a care sheet to meet your reptile’s needs and add enrichment to their lives.
What to consider before purchasing a new buddy:
Enclosure:
Pantherophis guttatus
Babies can live in show box-sized totes to 10 gal enclosures. Yearlings will do well in 20gal or an enclosure. 2 years and up can go in 30-40 gals. If you see a lot of room in the enclosure, add enclosure décor! They do not need too much space. Of course, giving your snake a big enclosure is possible, but they would much instead feel secure and love object to skin contact. So if you give them an abnormally big enclosure, please add lots of clutter and heavier items(not just fake plants) to the enclosure so the corn snake can constantly glide against an object. They would naturally do this in the wild, which is why you would see corn snake sheds along the perimeter of houses and farm structures. Never out in the open unless rocks or a tree stump is near.
Substrate(Flooring):
Aspen does well since they do not need much humidity to have perfect sheds. If you see mold in the enclosure, you have moistened the aspen chips too much! If you are worried about moisture, you can mix aspen chip and cypress mulch.
Décor:
You can add climbing décor. Corn snakes like to curl up on top of high places and sleep. Have a water bowl on the cold side (reduces bacteria), and you can put a hide on the hot and cold side. Refrain from cardboard. It molds super fast!
Cohabbing long-term isn’t a good idea.
Humidity & Temps:
50%-60% Humidity 75-82° Cool side 80-85° Hot side. Always have a basking light on a thermostat; snake burns are extremely painful to the snake & expensive to treat. The heating pad method was researched over the years, and it isn’t an efficient way to heat your corn snake. It isn’t a crime that you used a heating pad on your corn snake, but it has been updated that the corn snake lives a more active life with a heating light—basically giving them a more efficient way to thermoregulate.
Handling:
Corn Snakes are very easy to handle though babies can get scared of a hand swooping down from the sky! Don’t worry, corn snake bites are extremely minimal on the pain scale. Regular handling will keep them tame. Do not handle it 48 hours after their meal so they can digest 🙂
Feeding:
Feeding depends on how your snake weight is going, but here is a basic chart to go by:
- Hatchlings (under a year) should be fed once every seven days.
- Juveniles (over a year or 20inches) should be fed once every ten days.
- Adults about 3ft and longer should be provided once every 14 to a month!
Pick mice by the width of your snake’s stomach. It can be more significant than the thickest part of your snake’s body!
Up the meal size or frequency of your snake is skinny (feel ribs), but this chart I go by should keep your corn snake healthy. Lower the meal size if your snake is getting hefty (white skin between their scales)
Cleaning:
Please clean your snake’s poops & pees once you see them; they can get sick if you don’t! Every six months, deep clean & replace the substrate.