WELCOME TO THE GTP WORLD!
(Medium level care, dangerous bite)
On this page, we will go over the care of your python! I have owned reptiles since I was six years old and have had a deep fascination with snakes. I have had years of researching, reptile-common-sense, and experience to debunk the false care info and put together a care sheet to meet your reptile’s needs and enrich their lives.
What to buy from Amazon:
- Thermostat with probe is essential to regulate the correct temperatures.
- Dual Lamp to be able to provide a light bulb or UVB for enrichment and Heat bulb.
- Depending on cage size the heat bulb wattage can vary, your options are 25w, 40w, 60w, or 100w. The thermostat will protect the reptile from burning, but if you purchase a weak bulb you wont be able to heat the enclosure properly.
- Digital Thermostat and Hygrometer to monitor.
- Variety of substrates are available, but we recommend soil and/or bark.
- A water bowl that allows them to be able to lay in it.
- Hides and décor for the reptiles comfort.
- Here’s a starter enclosure for a baby, but if you are looking for something different there are these.
- Tongs for tong feeding.
What to consider before purchasing a new buddy:
Additional Info:
Morelia viridis
Sorong and Aru are the calmer of the Green Tree pythons. They are several localities of GTP that we can import: Aru, Cyclops, Biak, Biak High White, and Merauke. There are more localities of this species, but this is what we currently import. Biak is the most common import, but they tend to be more strikey. In this care guide, we will be going over any differences in the care of these localities.
Enclosure:
Babies can live in a 20-gal enclosure. Moving them to an adult enclosure after the baby enclosure would be economical. Adult enclosure minimum is 4ft. long, 2ft. wide, and two ft. tall. Blood pythons can get up to 6ft in some cases. They are highly terrestrial.
Substrate(Flooring):
Cypress mulch is an excellent substrate to hold moisture. You can add coco fiber or top organic soil for extra humidity. Refrain from using repti-bark if you do not want their water dyed.
Décor:
Have a water bowl on the cold side. Giving them horizontal branches is required for this species. For them to perch is the essential part of keeping this reptile. Refrain from cardboard. It molds super fast! Other decors like fake plants, vines draping, or natural plants will help the snake feel secure.
Humidity & Temps:
Aru: 75-79° day and 70-75° night temperatures. Humidity is 90% in the morning and 60% at night.
Biak: 76-86° ambient temperature. Humidity is 90% in the morning and 60% by night. 88-90° Hot side. Night time should drop to 70-75°.
Cyclops: 75-80° cooler side, 76-89° hot side. 90% Humidity in the morning and let it dry to 60% during the night. UVB is an excellent addition to keeping your snake healthy. Heating pads are not efficient for heating such a giant species of snake.
Handling:
GTPs should not be handled, but if needed, you should install a removable perch so deep it will be easier to accomplish without compromising the comfort of the python. If you must handle the GTP carefully, use a snake hook. GTPs can be handled, but I suggest getting to know your python more and letting it settle before you start handling it. Defiantly do not handle the snake too much, even if it does not seem to be handled. Do not handle it 48 hours after their meal so they can digest 🙂
Feeding:
This species spends a lot of time perching, and with that being said, this snake can get obese if you overfeed them. Feed them at night a half-hour after their lights are scheduled off.
Feeding depends on how your snake weight is going, but here is a basic chart to go by:
- Hatchlings (under a year) should be fed a pinkie every five days.
- Juveniles (over a year) should be fed once every seven days.
- Adults should be fed a small rat once every 10-14 days
Pick mice/rats by the width of your snake’s stomach. It can be bigger than the thickest part of your snake’s body!
Up the meal size or frequency of your snake is skinny (feel ribs), but this chart I go by should keep your boa constrictor healthy. Lower the meal size if your snake is getting hefty (white skin between their scales)
Cleaning:
Please clean your snake’s poops & pees once you see them; they can get sick if you don’t! Every six months, deep clean & replace the substrate.