WELCOME TO THE IGUANA WORLD!
(Considered beginner because likely of taming, but needs enormous enclosure and mating season can be dangerous)
On this page, we will go over the care of your Iguana! I have owned reptiles since I was six years old and have had a deep fascination with Iguanas. I have had years of researching, reptile-common-sense, and experience to debunk the false care info and put together a care sheet to meet your reptile’s needs and enrich their lives.
What to consider before purchasing a new buddy:
Enclosure:
Tiliqua scincoides
Babies can live in a 10-gal enclosure. Yearlings will do well in 30gal or an enclosure. 2 years and up can move into 4ftx2x2 enclosures. 4ft-6ft Iguanas need 6ft long, 4 ft tall, and 4ft wide! They can get 6ft long! You can always increase the size of the enclosure; add more objects in the enclosure so the Iguana feels hidden and secure.
Substrate(Flooring):
They thrive in high humidity, so coconut fiber is the appropriate substrate. Please stay away from repti-carpets because it harbors bacteria! Feed Iguana in a bowl or plate.
Décor:
Add climbing décor. Put a LARGE water bowl on the cold side (reduces bacteria), and you can put a hide on the hot and cold side. Refrain from cardboard; it molds super fast! Make sure there is a platform for the Iguana to eat higher up in the enclosure; they like to eat in high places.
Cohabbing long-term isn’t a good idea.
Humidity & Temps:
70% Humidity 80-85° Cool side 94-100° Hot side. Always have a heating pad or basking light on a thermostat for accurate temperatures.
Handling:
They can be flighty as babies, but regular handling will make them tame. Older males can get aggressive during mating season so refrain from holding them during that time.
Feeding:
Babies and adults should be fed daily unless the adult is obese, then fed every other day. Most of their plate should be DARK & LEAFY greens; 20% of the plate should be veggies like chopped carrots, sweet peppers, zucchini (courgettes), pumpkins, sweet potatoes, different beans (lima, green, butter, snaps ONLY), corn, green and sugar peas, squash and turnip greens. 10% of the plate should be fruit like: plums, bananas, figs(occasional), melons, watermelons, apples, peaches, pears, pineapples, mangos, papayas, guava, ((Occasionally blueberries, raspberries, mulberries)) and strawberries. To prevent impaction or choking, chop these fruits into small pieces and remove the large seeds.
Cleaning:
Please clean their poo & pees once you see them. They can get sick if you don’t! Every six months, deep clean & replace the substrate.
Vitamins:
You should lightly dust their food every 3-4 days for baby iguanas or females laying eggs. If you do not have a UVB build, please get the calcium dust with d3 too. It helps them use their calcium correctly.
FOOD TO AVOID:
No meat or insects; they are strictly herbivores—no high protein fruit/veggies like Soybeans. No outdoor plants; they have pesticides on them. AVOID spinach, rhubarb, celery, beetroot, chard, fried potato chips, parsley, and leeks; they don’t let your Iguana absorb calcium: fruit to feed only OCCASIONALLY kiwi, figs, and small berries. Don’t give too much broccoli, Brussels, and kale. It messes up their thyroid. NO AVOCADO.