WELCOME TO THE RETIC WORLD!
(Professional Keepers only)
On this page, we will go over the care of your reticulated python! I have owned reptiles since I was six years old and have had a deep fascination with snakes. I have had years of researching, reptile-common-sense, and experience to debunk the false care info and put together a care sheet to meet your reptile’s needs and enrich their lives.
What to consider before purchasing a new buddy:
Enclosure:
Malayopython reticulatus
Babies can live in 20-gal enclosures. Yearlings will do well in 55gal or more significantly. Larger Retics can go in their final cage upgrade 8ft long by 4ft wide by 2 ft tall. Fasten climbing décor because they will use them. Providing them with a nice climbing area is essential for this species. Especially the younger critics love to stay off the ground.
Substrate(Flooring):
Cypress mulch with peat moss works great because reticulated pythons tend to have shedding issues, but some shed in one piece, so it depends on your snake!
Décor:
You can add climbing décor. Reticulated pythons like to curl up on top of high places and sleep. Have a water bowl on the cold side (reduces bacteria), and you can put a hide on the hot and cold side. Refrain from cardboard. It molds super fast!
Cohabbing long-term isn’t a good idea.
Humidity & Temps:
60%-70% Humidity 84-86° Cool side 90-92° Hot side. Always have a basking light on a thermostat; snake burns are extremely painful to the snake & expensive to treat. A ceramic bulb works best for this animal.
Handling:
Research reticulated python behavior in more than just this paragraph! Retics have three modes: food, fight, and flight. Tap training is essential; whenever your snake is not going to be fed, tap the head of the snake and then grab them out. Once your reticulated python is slithering away, that is when you do not waste time and grab them out of their enclosure. Always successfully grab your reticulated python out of its cage. If you do not, they are intelligent and will scare you more the next time you try. If you waste your time grabbing your reticulated python out, they will potentially square up after they escape your grasp, making things more challenging. This is by no means a snake for a beginner; unlike the Burmese python, these are extremely strong. These snakes are semi-arboreal and have sensitive tails. Stay away from the tail as they do not react kindly to tail touches. If you picked up a more grown reticulated python, and they were socialized before you got them, they just might not mind the tail touching. However, it is general respect not to poke the skinny part of their tail.
Feeding:
Feeding depends on how your snake weight is going, but here is a basic chart to go by:
- Hatchlings (under a year) once every seven days.
- Juveniles (over a year or 20inches) should be fed once every ten days.
- Adults about 3ft and longer should be provided once every 14 days to 3 weeks.
Different schedules depend on how BIG the prey is!
Pick mice/rats/rabbits/pigs by the width of your snake’s stomach; it can be a little bigger than the thickest part of your snake’s body!
Up the meal size or frequency of your snake is skinny (feel ribs), but this chart I go by should keep your corn snake healthy. Lower the meal size if your snake is getting hefty (white skin between their scales)
Cleaning:
Please clean your snake’s poops & pees once you see them; they can get sick if you don’t! Every six months, deep clean & replace the substrate.