WELCOME TO THE DRAGON SNAKE WORLD!
(Advanced level)
On this page, we will go over the care of your Dragon Snake! I have owned reptiles since I was six years old and have had a deep fascination with reptiles. I have had years of researching, reptile-common-sense, and experience to debunk the false care info and put together a care sheet to meet your reptile’s needs and enrich their lives.
Products to buy from Amazon:
Thermostat with probe is essential to regulate the correct temperatures.
Dual Lamp to be able to provide a light bulb or UVB for enrichment and Heat bulb.
Depending on cage size the heat bulb wattage can vary, your options are 25w, 40w, 60w, or 100w. The thermostat will protect the reptile from burning, but if you purchase a weak bulb you wont be able to heat the enclosure properly.
Digital Thermostat and Hygrometer to monitor.
Variety of substrates are available, but we recommend soil and/or bark.
A water bowl that allows them to be able to lay in it.
Hides and décor for the reptiles comfort.
Here’s a starter enclosure for a baby, but if you are looking for something different there are these.
Tongs for tong feeding.
What to consider before buying your new buddy:
Additional Info:
Xenodermus javanicus
They are scarce to own and need excellent husbandry to keep the reptile alive. This species only gets 2 feet long and is considered fragile. You will not be able to handle this snake as often as you would like.
Enclosure:
Babies can live in a 6-quart tote enclosure. Moving them to an adult enclosure after the baby enclosure would be economical. The adult enclosure minimum is 2ft x 1ft x 1ft. Adding a sizeable flowing water system is highly recommended.
Substrate(Flooring):
Coco fiber, organic topsoil, and sphagnum moss mix is the best substrate because they can handle the humidity we need for this species without molding. Additionally, adding a drainage layer below the substrate will better your chances of the snake’s survival in captivity. I use hydro balls under the substrate. They like to burrow, so allow enough layer for humidity and burrowing.
Décor:
Have a water bowl on the cold side (reduces bacteria), and you can put a hide on the hot and cold side. Refrain from cardboard. It molds super fast! Other decors like fake plants, vines draping, or natural plants will help the reptile feel secure. Many hides and flowing water features will help the snake stay relaxed. Making their enclosures as naturalistic as possible will make the serpent feel less stressed. Add a water bowl under a hide so the reptile won’t be scared to drink.
Humidity & Temps:
90-100% Humidity. 75-77° ambient temperature. Do not exceed 78° degrees. It is imperative to have a new probe thermostat hooked to heat emitted, not a bulb emitting light. Only if the atmosphere the enclosure is in is too cold.
Handling:
Handle them as rarely as possible. Stress quickly kills them.
Feeding:
It is best to keep a supply of small fish, tadpoles, or frogs on hand. Offer them food every five days. You can offer them five tadpoles or two fish per feeding.
They will eat tree frogs and tadpoles, frog-blend Reptilinks, Medaka (Oryzias latipes), Mosquito fish (Gambusia affinis), and Guppies (Poecilia reticulata), Convict Cichlid (Amatitlania nigrofasciata) and Platies (Xiphophorus maculatus).
Cleaning:
Please clean your snake’s poops & pees once you see them; they can get sick if you don’t! Every six months, deep clean & replace the substrate.